Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Koffee, Kings, and Kastles!

After our adventures in and around Porto, we headed north into the heartland of Portugal. Lots of beautiful scenery. Farms, forestry, and pueblos. Very green. Bella and I were beginning to develop a relationship. Every once in a while, I would notice soft breathing in my left ear. The dog has the whole back of the car, and she lays her head on the seat next to my shoulder! She was great company the entire trip.

We left Porto with no real plans except to head north!

I think Bella liked me. Kim is snuggling up to the three
suitcases stacked to her left.
We stopped for coffee (there was a minor panic by the driver and navigator if we weren't in a small town between 11:30 and 12:00 to find a place to have a cafe con leche) in a small town. I can't remember the name of the place, but it was a cute little hole in the wall. The proprietor was very friendly, and upon or order of coffee, he launched into quite a process. It would be difficult to describe, but I was struck by the production he was making out of brewing four coffees. Later Angelinas mentioned that "He made it to complicated!" It was good however.

Viola asked the barkeep about the town of Guimaraes. She had noticed a small symbol indicating there was a castle there. She was curious, and it was in our general direction of choice. He got very enthusiastic, and indicated that it was a capital of some sort, and gave us directions: "sempre frente!" (straight ahead!) and we were off!

I think we only had to have the directions refreshed a few times before we came to Guimaraes. It's a pretty good sized town, and we figured it was some sort of regional capital (like a county seat). We followed the signs that had a picture of a castle and arrows up a small hill, and into a beautiful park-like area. There it was, a medieval castle! It was very imposing, and I thought about how handy it would be to be on the inside rather than the outside during a battle.

A medieval castle! 

Very imposing walls, and built on solid rock (granite I think).
We enter the gates!

The view from inside.

Viola couldn't resist running up to the parapets and checking
for an invading host!
This little chapel was next to the castle. It was restored
several hundred years ago.
 It turns out that this place is known as the "Cradle of Portugal". It seems that a noble (son of the Queen) named Afonso Henrique (think back to St George's castle) put together a coalition of other nobles who desired independence from the Spanish kingdom of Leon. They fought a great battle near this castle (which was hundreds of years old and in major disrepair at the time) in 1128. it is known as the Battle of Sao Mamede, and Afonso's victory over his mother was the beginning of an independent country of Portugal. By 1139 Afonso was recognized (by Portuguese people at least) as the first King of independent Portugal, and he rebuilt the castle. It served as the Royal Residence until around 1200. Walking through the castle you could feel the history.

I couldn't resist running up and knocking on the door to the castle!

This statue of King Afonso Henrique is just below
the castle. It was donated by Brazil to the Portuguese
people.
Afonso Henrique, the "Father of Portugal".
 After our castle tour, we sat in the shade in the parking lot eating cheese, picos (dried bread sticks) and sipping Rioja (Spanish red wine). Today had been another one of those serendipitous days where you find something you are not looking for. It was an amazing discovery, and an amazing day.

Viola and Bella rest in the shade.

Bread, wine and cheese! does it get any better?

We are off to find a place to spend the night.
I wonder where we will end up?
However, more surprises were to come before the sun set. We had no reservations, and a dog in the back seat. We were trusting to providence that we would find some place that took dogs. The day certainly started off lucky, maybe the ghost of Afonso Henrique would watch over us?

That's All!

3 comments:

  1. Awwww The photo of you Sam and Bella is adorable!!!

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  2. Hahahaha... the ghost of Afonso Henriques? Nice touch. Love you!
    xo,
    Opie

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  3. Great post Old Man :) what are you, some kind of dog whisperer? I'm jealous, Bella probably won't even remember me! Keep up the posts, they're great!

    Love you xx
    Moe

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